A weekend during San Fermin is a unique time, even for the festival itself.  People from all over the world will try to come to Pamplona for at least a couple days, but the weekend is the time when most of the people in the region will ONLY be able to make it.  In other years San Fermin has included two weekends, this year, just one.

The earlier bull runs of the festival were rather quick and uncomplicated.  That all changed when the weekend began.  It started off on a dark note, the first encierro related death in a number of years.  A quick look at the international press and the controversial side of the bull run is highlighted: “maybe its time to stop this dangerous tradition” and “there is no indication that the remainder of the bull runs will be canceled.“

The man who died was an experienced runner, a veteran of many runs here in Pamplona and all over Spain.  While there are always people who do not know what they are getting into by running with the bulls, this man was fully aware of what could happen.  It was that tradition that brought him back this year.  The response from his encierro companions was touching.  On Saturday there was a moment of silence for the man that had passed and then the bull runs continued as planned.

Sunday was marked by the dangerous Miura bulls which have given San Fermin 2009 its longest run with the most tense moments. The bull runs will continue until Tuesday, two more demonstrations of the spectacular and dangerous.

Two bulls, Cappuccino and Ermitaño have “turned around” and separated themselves from the rest of the herd, and these two bulls have accounted for most of the gorings and even the one death this year.

by Riley Maguire

Alcohol
Alcohol will be one of those necessary staples and the best place to pick up beer, wine or kalimotxo will be at the nearest convenience store. Several are located just off the main plaza (Plaza del Castillo) and you will find more on Calle San Gregorio.  Of course, you can also find your provisions at local bars.  Usually for less than two euros you can have a glass of wine or a caña (draft beer).  A katxi (big plastic cup of whatever) runs about 7 euros depending on where you go.  You can get a litre bottle of San Miguel beer for half the price at a convenience store.  The cheap move is to use the bars only for the bathroom (and be ready for long lines and the most unique smells San Fermin can offer).

Food
The same budget principles apply to eating during San Fermin.  The convenience stores will be sure to have Bocadillos or Bocatas (sandwiches), chips, and other easy food for much less than you’ll find them elsewhere.  Expect to pay 3 or 4 euros for a ham and cheese sandwich and if you’re on a tight budget, you shouldn’t be thinking of much else.  You’ll also find some other walk-up eating options (like crepes) on Calle San Gregorio. Restaurants and pincho bars will have better quality and higher prices.  Stay away from the food court that sets up in Parque de Antonuitti if you are eating cheaply.  You will find many grocery stores if you head to the newer neighborhoods (San Juan or Iturrama are closest).  Look for an Eroski supermarket.

Sleeping
Its hard to plan ahead for this part of the trip.  Hostels are usually booked months ahead and other options on the internet may look kinda spotty.  The good news is that if you are a bit flexible, there are plenty of ways to get some rest upon arriving in Pamplona.  Some of the people hawking cheap beds in their apartments at the bus and train stations are very much worth listening to.  Many natives of Pamplona will go this route, but you should be ready to pay a lot for that kind of comfort.  Here is a list of hotels, hostels and campgrounds in Navarra with contact info.   Also, check out the message boards!

The classic low budget move is to sleep in the park and Pamplona is full of green sleeping options.  If you are here to party all night, you’ll probably find some shade to sleep in the day anyway.  Safety is in numbers and you will not be alone if you catch some shut eye in The Ciudadela, Pamplona’s central park.  A word of warning however: stay with people you know!  Yamaguchi Park is also a very open, landscaped park, a bit father away from all the crowds.  Some other places like the Parque Media Luna (behind the bull ring) or The Taconera are very beautiful spots, but get these get pretty dark at night.

Entertainment
The streets of Pamplona during San Fermin are their own free entertainment.  With Bull Runs, rockets firing, water and wine pouring down from the windows, and people jumping off of fountains in all degrees of intoxication, there is no shortage of things to see here.  At night don’t miss the fireworks that are lunched from the Ciudadela 11pm nightly.  Every night a different pyrotechie group will try to outdo each other in a competition that is always impressive.  After fireworks there are usually free concerts in the Plaza del Castillo and sometimes at the Plaza de los Fueros.  Things are usually a bit more calm during the day and there are many activities planned for local families (like Los Gigantes and the Toro de Fuego).

By John Rueda
You may plan on going out every night during San Fermin, and that’s great, but if there if one morning not to miss it is the morning of July 6th, known as the Chupinazo. This is the event that marks the opening of San Fermin and it is so memorable that it was even chosen as the poster design for this year’s festival. In the poster you can see an explosion of reds and whites as the clock strikes 12 which really does capture the emotions you will feel if you make it out this day.

The tradition is that at 12noon on July 6th a rocket is shot off from the balcony of town hall (Ayuntamiento) to initiate the beginning of San Fermin. To continue with tradition, the entire town and all of its guests meet in front of town hall for a ceremony full of day-drinking and other forms of celebration. You won’t leave this plaza clean and you’ll know who was there and who was not by the color of their previously white clothing.

If you plan on joining in this event the following may be valuable advice:

* Don’t wear sandals (There will lots of broken glass and other sharp things on the floor not to mention the thousands of people around you that could step on you.)
* Don’t bring your little sister, the claustrophobic, or the faint-hearted (Grandparents, children, small dogs) There is a period of about 5 minutes where if you are anywhere within the plaza you will be crushed from all sides and unable to leave even if you want to. Each year I’ve looked around me in these moments to see girlfriends crying and their boyfriends desperately trying to hoist their lady friend on their shoulders in hopes of alleviate some of the hysteria. Unless she was a substitute for the men’s rugby team I’d make her sit this one out.
* Don’t bring a camera, cell phone, or anything that you don’t want to get wet.
* If you must bring your cell phone or camera, put them inside a plastic bag if you wish to use them again.
* If you want a great spot try and get there by 10:30, but bring something to drink; you may be waiting for a while. You can also try right before but be prepared to push.

When it’s all over make sure to go to the near by streets and scream up to the windows. If you are lucky someone will dump a bucket of water on you to help you clean up.

By John Rueda

We Anglo-Saxons have issues when it comes to touching, staring, bumping, and pretty much anything that involves personal space. Shoving is something that we are taught from a young age is bad. If you put a group of us into a room and wait long enough we’ll probably form a line and begin to wait for something. Well, if you plan on making a trip to a Mediterranean country or attending San Fermin, you will enjoy it a lot more if keep these 3 cultural gems in mind.

1. Kissing and strangers
In South America it’s one, in Poland it’s like eight, and in Spain two kisses are generally given when meeting a new female friend, (one for each cheek.) This sort of behavior is not only permitted, it’s expected.

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It is very likely that those who are new to San Fermines will be a bit lost when the fiesta “explodes” around them. Yes, the bulls will be running in the morning, there are bull fights in the afternoons and the nights are filled with booze, but what else?

We all owe very much to Hemingway for painting such a picture of these days in July. Since his work has left its imprint on the festival, it has ballooned into something of a beast. The town will inflate with visitors, hotels will be sold out, garbage is left everywhere and the locals will likely take off for the coasts. Yet Hemingway devoutly respected one thing, an element that has not wavered even with all of the attention and popularity: the culture of San Fermines.

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